Radical Earth

This spring, my wife and I embarked on a long planned 24 mile hike along the gorgeous, rugged, and remote wilderness Hells Canyon National Historic Trail, along the Snake River.
The hike began not on foot, but aboard the Kirby Ranch triple jet, jetboat. We hitched a ride from Pittsburgh Landing, with the annual Hells Canyon Adventure Run. With an above average snowpack melting off, the river was flowing at an impressive 70,000 cubic feet per second, which made for a rollicking ride up river. I was impressed by the size of some of the rapids and holes. You could cut the tension in the boat with a knife.  Water levels inundated the trail at two spots. First just below Sheep Creek, and the second just above Kirkwood ranch. River sandals, and trekking poles made the knee deep, ice cold water non-problematic.  Once on shore, and with the runners ahead of us, we had the trail essentially to ourselves for three days, only seeing two other sets of hikers, hiking in. It was a rainy, cloudy trip, which made for poor light conditions for images, and wet days hiking, though we never had precipitation in camp. This canyon is a scorcher when the sun is out, with barely any shade, and is filled with rattlesnakes, so the cold and wet conditions had its benefits for sure. Spring in the Hells is wonderfully green, and full of ground cover life. All the feeder streams were full, though I found drinking water to be more challenging to locate than anticipated.

Looking downriver in the Snake Rivers, Hells Canyon

Looking up canyon to the “toe of the ogre” The far ridgeline, travels from the river over 9000 ft. up to the summits of the Seven Devil mountains

A closer look at some of the topgrapgy of the Seven Devil mountains

Impressive mass of earth on the Oregon side of the river. My wife can be seen, adding to the scale of this canyon.

The trail cuts through a dizzying array of cliffs for 30 miles. My wife can be seen on the trail bringing the scale of the canyon into view.

Looking across the Snake river, to a cut out section of trail on the Oregon side.

Looking down river. The scale becomes clearer, with my wife in the frame.

A close up look at the lively ground cover in the Hells Canyon

The Nationally registered McGaffee cabin

McGaffee cabin gives us a dry, comfortable respite from the rain

A picture of the McGaffees in the cabin

Hooch spot on the river

Much of the trail meanders through grassy meadows, with a soft, green grass trail.

An impressive ancient river bar, now covered in grass.

My wife can be seen making her way through the cliff trail of Suicide Rock.

DeeOgee takes in the expansive views awarded at Suicide Rock overlook.

DeeOgee looks ahead, as we make our way up, and out of the historic Kirkwood ranch

Impressive cloud ribbons mix with the canyon rim.

Map overlay below broken into three days.

Day 1. Granite Creek to Sheep Creek – 8.7 miles – 1115 ft. ascent – 1416 ft. descent

Day 2. Sheep Creek to Big Bar – 5.3 miles – 1310 ft ascent – 1179 descent

Day 3. Big Bar to Pittsburg Landing – 9.7 miles – 3148 ft. ascent – 3484 ft. descent

I leave you with this link to Pete Seegers wonderful song “Hells Canyon / Dont Ask What A River Is For”.  This was my trail song I carried with me in my head. Click this link to buy the song through the Smithsonian.